If you've ever bought foundation and, later, sighted in a mirror a too-pale goth that happens to be you, join the club.

Despite the wide range of foundations available, it is all too easy to hone in on the wrong tone.

It's not a pigment of your imagination: an online survey conducted by Estee Lauder together with SPH Magazines found that covering up your complexion is, in fact, a complex issue facing most women.

In the poll carried out from May 15 to June 30 this year, 88 per cent of 637 respondents - or 561 women - said they had trouble finding the right foundation.

The survey, posted on the websites of Female and Simply Her magazines, did not ask respondents to cite their reasons.

Estee Lauder's senior training manager, Marjorie Lee, suggests that women probably could not find foundations in their desired shade, coverage and finish.

Pore over this: Over half the women (52 per cent) said their foundation did not give the right coverage.

When it came to choosing textures, most preferred to play it safe, sticking to powder (42 per cent) or liquid variations (38 per cent).

The fact is, there are many more textures to experiment with - from light-as-air mousse to long-wearing stick products - that provide as much, or as little, coverage as you want.

Before we go on to give you the lowdown on the cover-ups, here are four myths debunked:

» Using foundation will clog my pores and cause pimples

Well, that would be true if you had to use old-fashioned stage make-up many years ago. Then, few skin-friendly ingredients were available to cosmetic chemists, says Scott Miselnicky, Clinique's executive director of global product development (make-up).

Now, there are new lightweight ingredients that allow skin to breathe. So these days, foundation won't cause an acne break-out.

In fact, foundation 'acts as an additional protective shield from the daily harmful environmental aggressors', adds Lee, commenting on the harmful effects of the sun, dust and pollution.

» I can use a facial cleanser to wash foundation off my face

That's okay for cleaning a make-up-free face. To properly remove all traces of make-up, always use a make-up remover. Your regular cleanser comes after.

'A poor make-up removal regime will lead to clogged pores and acne. Plus, your skin will not be able to fully absorb the benefits from, say, repairing products and moisturiser that follow,' explains Lee.

» I can find the right shade of foundation by matching it to the back of my hand

Contrary to popular belief, no. The best place to test a foundation shade is actually along your jawline. This is much more accurate and ensures that the colour blends with the skin tone of your face and neck.

Shiseido assistant trainer Karen Oon recommends walking out of the department store and viewing the colour on you outdoors to ensure it looks natural in daylight too.

» Foundation should be applied all over the face

It's better to dot foundation on areas with uneven pigmentation or scars to even out your skin tone and leave the rest of your face uncovered.

Do remember to blend, blend, blend - or your face may look patchy.

LAYING DOWN A GOOD FOUNDATION

LOOSE POWDER

Coverage: Use it over foundation to set make-up - unless it comes in a mineral formulation, which works as a foundation

Pros: Mineral foundations won't clog pores and have sunblock and skin-soothing properties

Cons: Application can be messy. That chalky dust gets all over your dressing table and clothes

Good for: A light covering; oily or sensitive skin

PRESSED POWDER

Coverage: Sheer to medium

Pros: Feels light on the skin, is easy to apply and is super for quick applications on the go

Cons: Not for people with flaky skin as the powder will make the skin look drier. Tends to run off face through the course of the day

Good for: Normal to combination skin; toning down the shine from sunscreen

MOUSSE

Coverage: Medium

Pros: The whipped texture makes it easy to spread; gives a powdery matte finish for that polished professional look

Cons: Tends to dry out quickly and emphasises dry areas of the face

Good for: Most skin types except very dry skin

GEL

Coverage: Medium

Pros: The lightweight gel texture feels cool to the skin; perfect for Singapore's humid climate

Cons: Tends to come off oily skin after, say, half a day

Good for: Dry to combination skin

LIQUID

Coverage: Medium to high

Pros: The default option for women wanting greater coverage than powdered versions. Easy to apply and doesn't feel cakey

Cons: With so many liquid foundations around - from matte to dewy - you'll have to try a few types before settling on one with the right coverage and finish

Good for: Dry to combination skin

CREAM

Coverage: Medium to high

Pros: Helps to cover fine lines and minor pigmentation; gives lustre to dry skin

Cons: Could look cakey if applied with a heavy hand

Good for: Dry to normal skin

STICK

Coverage: High

Pros: Can be applied lightly or layered on for more coverage; also works as a concealer

Cons: Not for those with very oily skin as the cream tends to come off easily

Good for: Blemished faces; most skin types except very oily

This article was first published in Urban, The Straits Times on Oct 3, 2008.