FACED with stiff competition, changing tastes and affluent jewellery buyers, some jewellers are working hard to stay a cut above the rest.

Mr Kean Ng, senior marketing manager of Lee Hwa Jewellery, observes: "Competition is keen and the entire jewellery industry is growing steadily. This growth is particularly evident at the top end of the spectrum, with the introduction of many new players."

Soo Kee's Enchante Egalia

He says combined revenue from the Aspial Group's jewellery brands Aspial, Lee Hwa Jewellery, Goldheart and Citigems grew by 25 per cent during the first half of this year, compared to the same period last year.

Style-conscious customers are spending more for unique designs and better quality.

"Our Vogue line, which is largely inspired by the latest fashion trends, has seen brisk sales," says Mr Ng.

The managing director of On Cheong Jewellery and president of the Singapore Jewellers Association, Mr Ho Nai Chuen, adds: "Genuine jewellery lovers are looking for pieces with character."

He forecasts that the field will become more design-oriented, with an emphasis on gem quality and designs for timeless appreciation.

Mr Raymond Phua, managing director of Da Vinci Jewellery, has noticed the rise of coloured precious and semi-precious stones.

"Initially, colours were restricted to red and green but now topaz, peridot and amethyst jewellery is also doing well," he says.

"Wearing less is more when it comes to the top trend for next year, but the key ingredient is larger, bolder, gem-intensive jewellery. The more unique the gemstone is, the better."

On Cheong's rich yellow gold piece

Ms Geraldine Loh, senior brand manager for Soo Kee Jewellery, adds: "Consumers are in tune with all the latest jewellery trends. Soo Kee must cater to this by constantly improving and coming up with new designs."

Jewellers themselves have been unveiling some new looks of their own. For wider demographic appeal, the neighbourhood goldsmith has become a trendy bauble boutique.

On Cheong's Mr Ho says: "In the 70s and 80s, consumers looked for simple yellow gold jewellery. Since the 90s, younger consumers have chased after diamond-set or gem-set 18K white gold jewellery."

At this year's Singapore International Jewellery Show (SIJS), local jewellers will give the world a taste of what they are capable of, with a showcase of their best designs.

"Good design is distinctive and able to differentiate itself from other pieces, hence helping bring the brand to the next level," says Mr Phua.

Soo Kee's Ms Loh adds: "Design is the most important and fundamental factor in jewellery. It is the deciding factor for consumers and a reflection of the wearer's personality."

In line with "National Day", the show's theme, Lee Hwa commemorates the resilient and vibrant Singaporean spirit with the purplegold-and-diamonds Purple Agnes collection, named after the woman who named Singapore's national flower, the Vanda Miss Joaquim.

Lee Hwa's Twist

Soo Kee's centerpiece is a necklace set entitled Enchante Regalia. Incorporating red coral, diamonds, pearls and garnets, the $138,998 piece will make its debut at the SIJS.

Says Ms Loh: "The floral design represents the country in full bloom. The long pearl strands interweaved with garnets suggest the unity and strong bonds in our interracial community."

On Cheong's designers will present rich yellow gold pieces based on the design on traditional shophouses, as well as the Stars and Crescent series, specially designed to celebrate Singapore's 42nd birthday.

Success in the jewellery business is as elusive as a flawless diamond. "Our customers are individuals who are aware of fashion trends and want to buy the best. It is important for us to know what their needs and wants are and fulfil them," remarks Mr Ng.

Soo Kee's Ms Loh adds: "We stand out from the rest by changing to adapt to trends and consumers' needs."

But satisfying customer demands and anticipating industry shifts are only one facet of the challenges faced by jewellery boutiques, and they are constantly on the lookout for little extras to give them an added edge.

For example, Lee Hwa welcomes design input from outside the company - a collaboration with Toshiyuki Kita, the award-winning designer of Sharp's Aquos LCD TV range, has yielded the Twist collection.

"We have also teamed up with Dick Lee, one of the most creative minds in Singapore, to conceptualise a series of designs for our sophisticated, fashion-savvy customers," says Mr Ng.

Da Vinci's gemstones ring

"Collaborations are one of the best ways for us to maintain our leadership position in the industry as our partners bring with them fresh and innovative ideas that are often drawn from the most unlikely sources."