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Cheah Ui-Hoon
Thu, Nov 29, 2007
The Business Times
Back to black

IT'S back! The ubiquitous, versatile yet statement-making black is making a comeback in jewellery.

Classic: Cartier's Caresse d'orchidees ring in onyx and white gold paved with diamonds ($71,000)

It's partly a backlash against so much colour we've had before in jewellery, but also a nod to the retro vibes permeating the fashion scene.

'When there's colour, there's also a strong demand for black and white by those who are reacting against colour. Besides, black and white are simply classic. Think Chanel... The classic elegance associated with black, paired with white, is never wrong,' declares Kim Goh, owner of Kim T Jewellers at Raffles Hotel, who is also predicting a revival of art deco design in jewellery, and the continuing demand for diamonds.

While onyx is the popular black stone for everyday jewellery, black sapphires cut like diamonds and black diamonds are used for the finer, more delicate look in fine jewellery.

Dramatic: Piaget's 18k white gold ring set with 682 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx 7.76 carats) and one black spinel (approx 55.02 carats). Price upon application

Nowhere is this trend more prevalent than in the new lines at Lee Hwa, as designed by composer Dick Lee, who was invited as guest designer for the local jewellery house. Mr Lee's Pop Deluxe collection is largely inspired by the '60s, 'an era where the yin and yang of colour - black and white - was popularised', explains Mr Lee. 'I based my designs on the futuristic, stylish looks of the '60s which made extensive use of black and white and optical art to create intriguing contrasts, hence the heavy usage of black and white colour schemes for some of the lines in the collection,' he says.

Two of the lines are named after well-known proponents of pop art, Bridget Riley and Penelope Tree. The 'Bridget' line features stylised checkerboard geometric patterns that create the impression of fluid and languid movement. 'I particularly like the Bridget ring because of its bold onyx and diamond-distorted check pattern as it is representative of the '60s era and its overall design theme,' says Mr Lee. The Penelope pieces were inspired by the wide belt buckles that were in style at that time.

How best to wear black and white jewellery though? Mr Lee notes that the strong designs make a statement and can be worn as a fun addition to a look, or showcased by downplaying the outfit. 'To really stand out, they can be worn with black and white prints,' he advises.

'The colours are very of-the-moment and yet timeless,' he concludes.

Startling: Loang & Noi's rare pear-shaped black diamond brooch on white gold ($808,000). The 17cm by 5cm piece, which sports a 152.18-carat black diamond and a total of 3.83 carats of white diamonds, is from the Luv Angel Collection.
Harmonious: Goldheart's white gold, onyx and diamond earrings ($4,468) from the keys Collection. Designer Eunice Olsen was inspired by the black and white keys of the paino.
Stylish: Bridget ring (top, $2,131) and Penelope ring (bottom, $1,618), both by Dick Lee for Lee Hwa.  
Elegant: Bulgari's Elisia white gold double pendant necklace with one black onyx, two bluish chalcedonies, 10 black onyx beads and 5.82 carats of diamonds ($53,000).
Poetic: Montblanc's Hymne ring in white gold with diamonds and black nephrite jade (US$103,000).
 

 
STORY INDEX
 
  Make waves
   
 
  The white shirt
   
 
  Christie's
   
 
  Investments that don't lose their lustre
   
 
  Haute stuff
   
 
  Tasmanian inspirations
   
 
  With this ring I thee wed...
   
 
  Adding exclusivity and more to a girl's best friend
   
 
  Say it with metal
   
 
  Promises made in palladium
   
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