Going green has been given the green light by fashion retailers in a big way this year. They've evolved from selling clothes and bags emblazoned with pro- environment messages - like British handbag designer Anya Hindmarch did last year with her wildly popular I'm Not A Plastic Bag canvas totes - to opting for apparel crafted out of recycled, crushed bottles, for example.
In the past two months, brands like Levi's jeans and German streetwear label adidas Originals have launched eco- friendly lines made from natural, biodegradable materials like organic cotton, hemp and jute here.
American high-street label Banana Republic will launch its eco-friendly Green line on Monday.
Others like British retailer Marks & Spencer and local accessories outfit Maki Squarepatch have turned trash pickers.
The former recently introduced a line of women's pants made with polyester spun from used plastic bottles. Maki Squarepatch, meanwhile, has been retailing patchwork toys and bags crafted out of scrap fabrics since setting up two years ago.
'Going green has become the mantra of numerous industries in reaction to acute environmental issues facing the world today,' says Gina Goh, division manager of the Singapore operations of American denim house Levi's.
'In an age where youth are heavily influenced by the latest trends, styles and pop culture, fashion is an excellent way of educating the masses (about it).'
GREEN GRUNTS
Singaporeans sure have a whole harvest of fashion goodies to choose from to reduce their carbon footprint - whoops, carbon stiletto-shoeprint.
Trouble is, buying green is not exactly red hot here.
A Nielsen Media 2007 Index showed that while the proportion of Singaporeans who agreed that the environment should be protected rose from 62 per cent in 2004 to 66 per cent last year, those who bought environmentally friendly products remained stagnant at 49 per cent.
It's not because of fashion's sometimes fair-trade trade-off - an item may be made in a socially responsible way but, boy, does it carry the ugly tag. Think dowdy- looking hemp sandals and shapeless tees in brown, brown and brown.
The main force standing in the way of fashion's green parade here is cost.
As there aren't any local organic textile manufacturers, fabrics are imported and this increases costs by 15 to 30 per cent, says Jay Chong, founder of events company greenpeas.
Her company represents 15 green fashion labels such as Australian jewellery designer Jeanette James, who makes use of natural materials such as sea shells.
Issy Richardson, co-founder of Singapore-based organic baby wear label Belle & Dean, adds that organic fabric requires expensive special care in the manufacturing process.
This translates to higher retail prices, with a pair of Levi's Premium Eco jeans, for example, costing around $50 more than those from the normal line made with conventional cotton.
And Singaporeans aren't keen on losing the extra 'greens' in their wallets for something not that obvious.
Patent engineer Fiona Chew, 23, says: 'Wearing green clothing doesn't seem to have that tangible environmental impact as compared to using the fan instead of the air-con. You don't see some immediate decrease in the electricity bill.'
But even if you aren't the tree-hugger sort, donning green apparel does make a difference, industry insiders insist.
Fabrics such as organic cotton are more comfortable and safer. The fact that they contain no dyes or chemicals reduces risks of skin irritation, Richardson says.
At adventure wear label exofficio, the soy fibre line is a top seller precisely because of its lightweight, breathable and quick-drying properties, says its marketing manager Iris Chia.
Yatin Premchaund, general manager of non-profit organisation Singapore Environment Council, says eco-friendly products are generally of superior quality and durability because they go through intensive research and development.
'Maybe in the 1970s or 1980s, recycled products were literally made from trash but now they are often top-tier products and innovations in their own right.'
As for greenwear sometimes looking earnest and dull, these days it's out with grunge, in with glam.
It's not just top labels such as Stella McCartney that are making green hip. Helmed by vegetarian designer Stella McCartney, it never uses fur or leather and makes selected pieces with organic cotton. All eight green designers and retailers Urban spoke to - made up of international and local labels - say design takes top priority.
British eco shoe label Terra Plana, for example, uses vegetable dyes to colours its shoes - made of scrap leather - in bright shades like pink and blue. Designs include floral printed Oxford booties and military-chic high tops.
Fashion design and textile lecturer Angelynn Tan, 35, has launched a collection of 10 tops made of bamboo fibre. She says the fabric's slightly heavy weight and natural drape makes it a good choice for fitted, lady-like silhouettes.
'The fabric is just like any other type of cloth that I've worked with. You might not be able to re-create Issey Miyake's pleats with it but you can handle it exactly the way you would with normal cotton.'
Bamboo fibre tee, $130, from Yolo; embroidered recycled pants, $98, both from Logo; leather sandals, $91.90, from Nuabs
Him: Organic linen shirt, $129, and organic cotton tee with leaf-print, $59, both from Banana Republic; cotton shorts, model's own
Her: Bamboo-print organic linen sundress, $235, from Banana Republic
Him: Bamboo fibre long-sleeved tee, $275, by Teddy Or; bamboo fibre scarf, $39, from Logo; cotton shorts, model's own; sneakers, $262, from adidas Originals
Her: Cotton linen bamboo blend zip-front cardigan, $300, and bamboo fibre shell top, $215, both by Teddy Or; recycled cotton skirt with paper dollies, not for sale, by students Sabrina Lau, Malving Tan, Foong Wai Harng and Emily Tan from Republic Polytechnic; sneakers, $192, from adidas Originals
GREEN GROCERS
Clueless about how to start your green wardrobe? Urban susses out 14 of the newest eco-friendly labels in town
adidas Originals Grun adidas Concepts Store, 01-09 Pacific Plaza
Imagine adidas Originals' signature funky street style in more subdued earth tones. Consists of men's and women's apparel and footwear. Grun is German for green.
Green factor: Made of natural and recycled materials like hemp, chrome-free leather and recycled rice husks.
Prices: $62 for a women's graphic tee to $382 for a men's jacket
Banana Republic Green Collection 02-04 Paragon
A mostly green, white and beige collection of men's tees and women's casual wear. Very safari chic.
Green factor: Fabrics are made from renewable and sustainable materials like organic cotton and soy/silk blends.
For Earth Day last Tuesday, the brand donated 1 per cent of sales proceeds to American non-profit land conservation organisation, The Trust For Public Land.
Prices: $49 for a tank top to $259 for a trench coat (collection arrives next Monday)
Belle & Dean Antipodean, 27A Lorong Mambong; Swirl, 02-05 Stamford House;www.belleanddean.com
Unbleached toddler wear and accessories and adult tees featuring silkscreen line drawings of endangered animals.
Green factor: Made with 100 per cent organic cotton certified by the Control Union in The Netherlands. The dyes used on prints are water-soluble and do not contain chemicals.
Prices: $12 for a bib to $45 for a baby blanket
exofficio 03-300 Marina Square
Savvy and practical travel clothing for men and women including a camping line said to repel bugs for 25 washes.
Green factor: Carries three eco-friendly lines - Eco-Poly that's made from 100 per cent recycled polyester, Soytopia made from renewable soy sources and BugsAway which repels insects so you needn't reach for the insecticide.
Prices: $25 for a BugsAway bandana to $329 for a heavy knit Soytopia sweater
greenpeas Curiocity, A1-01 Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts Campus 2
Represents 15 eco-friendly labels including Jakarta-based XSProject and Australian jeweller Jeanette James.
Green factor: XSProject makes bags from discarded soap boxes, for example, while James uses natural materials like the spikes of anteaters killed on roads.
Prices: $12 for an XSProject pouch to $125 for an Eco Kettle
Jana Leong-Skornickova Singapore Garden Festival, Suntec Convention Centre (July 25 to Aug 1)
Hair accessories made with dried herbs, fruit and flowers. Proceeds go to the Garden City Fund.
Green factor: The National Parks Board senior researcher uses natural materials she picks up on expeditions. No preservatives are used as the plants are said to last a long time.
Prices: Currently unavailable
Levi's Premium Eco Collection Original Levi's, 01-32 Raffles City
Trendy printed cotton tees, jackets and blue jeans for men and women.
Green factor: Made entirely of organic cotton; paper packaging is made of 100 per cent recycled paper.
Prices: $79.90 for a T-shirt to $239.90 for jeans
Logo/Yolo Curiocity, A1-01 Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts Campus 2
Simple, feminine tops by Nafa fashion design and textile lecturer Angelynn Tan, 35. The Logo line is plain while the Yolo line, designed with local creative agency Yellow Octopus, features floral drawings.
Green factor: Made from bamboo fibre certified by the Japan Textile Inspection Association. Bamboo plants thrive naturally without pesticides.
Prices: $59 for a tank top to $129 for a sweater
Maki Squarepatch 33 Bali Lane; Swirl, 02-05 Stamford House
Whimsical hand-sewn patchwork toys and accessories by fine arts graduate Wang Pi Xin. There's also a bespoke service.
Green factor: Made with donated scrap fabric. The store also supports 'socially responsible' local artists.
Prices: $25 for a small purse to $75 for a plush toy. Bespoke prices vary.
Marks & Spencer 02-50 The Centrepoint
Classic organic cotton men's polo tees and women's trousers made of polyester from recycled plastic bottles.
Green factor: The bottles used to make the polyester are sourced from recycling programmes in Taiwan.
Prices: $69 for women's pants and for a men's polo tee
nuabs Level 4, Robinsons The Centrepoint; Red Wing Shoe Shop, 02-070 Suntec City Mall
Ultra-soft leather slingback sandals inspired by the ones poor farmers make from discarded rubber tyres. Extremely comfortable unless you're flat-footed, as the sole is entirely flat.
Green factor: The rubber sole is made from 30 per cent recycled tyres and 70 per cent lightweight durable rubber.
Prices: $91.90 per pair
Teddy Or teddyor@yahoo.com
Woven bamboo fibre tops with a modern, edgy feel by the Singaporean designer.
Green factor: Made from bamboo fibre certified by the Japan Textile Inspection Association.
Prices: $215 for a sleeveless top to over $300 for a long-sleeved blouse
Terra Plana spin the bottle, 01-02 The Cathay
British label selling edgy yet practical shoes. Won The Observer's Ethical Fashion Product of the Year in London last year.
Green factor: Uses vegetable dyes and e-leather, a leather-like material made from scrap leather and other fabrics. Has collaborated with British non-government organisation Anti-Apathy on a shoe line made of recycled materials.
Prices: $100 for a pair of canvas Mary Janes to $300 for a pair of e-leather knee-high boots
Timberland 01-101 The Centrepoint
Hardy, practical clothes for the great outdoors for both men and women.
Green factor: Uses organic cotton blend in its tees and materials like hemp and tagua nuts in 80 per cent of its shoes. Big on community service and organises activities such as tree planting in Mongolia's Horqin Desert.
Prices: $149 for a hemp short-sleeved tee to $259 for a pair of men's Oxfords
This article was first published in Urban, The Straits Times on May 1, 2008.
