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Sun, Nov 09, 2008
Urban, The Straits Times
The skinny on ties

No one can deny the pull of a suave guy in a suit, complete with a perfectly knotted tie.

You would think with the kind of instant corporate cred you get with a tie - not to mention its binding appeal to women - that menfolk would only be too happy to get knotted.

Image consultant Christina Ong says newly elected American president Barack Obama ties the perfect tie. It is tight and neat, giving the tie volume and the wearer a smart look.

Yet ties remain a hang-up for many.

Christina Ong, president of the South Asia chapter of the Association of Image Consultants International, says men often get the wrong end of that noose when it comes to working a professional look.

On average, only two out of every 10 guys get it right, she adds.

She runs Imageworks Asia, which conducts style classes for the likes of Nanyang Business School and local and international banks.

She says: 'I could easily list 10 mistakes that men make. For example, many tie a very loose knot because they say it's more comfortable, but this communicates laid-back ease instead of professionalism.'

Runway trends are also getting men in knots.

Take the return of the skinny tie, first popularised in the 1950s by late rocker Buddy Holly and then in recent years by labels like Dior Homme and Dolce & Gabbana.

Vestan Low, assistant merchandising manager of Tangs, says such ties, which measure between 5.5 and 7cm wide compared to the usual 8 and 9cm, make up over 20 per cent of tie sales - a significant figure considering skinny ties are deemed a niche market.

Ong says the skinny tie look is generally not accepted in many offices because its trendy factor makes it more at home in clubs than in the business world.

She says: 'It's a fad that would work only for a professional whose work depends greatly on his personality and has the attitude to carry it off.'

As she points out: 'A tie is recognised as a symbol of professionalism in the corporate world.'

Going by growing sales figures, that is an image more men are striving for.

At Tangs, which stocks 18 necktie brands ranging from the affordable Goldlion to the luxe Gianfranco Ferre, sales have grown 15 per cent from March to August this year, says Low.

At Italian luxury fashion house Etro, known for its colourful printed ties, tie sales have grown by 20 per cent since the boutique opened in 2005, says Alphonsus Chung, vice-president of marketing communications of The Link which runs Etro here.

On average, the store increases its stock of ties by 12 to 15 per cent each season, he adds.

Still in a flap over how to wear a tie? Urban gets Ong, Low and Chung to give some tips to tie for.

From left, polyester-blend floral-printed necktie, $29; polyester-blend neon striped necktie, $29; polyester-blend plain tie, $29; all from Topman, 01-72 VivoCity Cotton shirt by Library, $129, silk tie by Goldlion, $89, both from Level 3, Tangs Orchard From left, polyester-blend skinny necktie, $29, Topman; silk checked necktie by Domanchi, $49, X/Square, 02-321 Marina Square; silk necktie with wave print, $53, G2000, B1-45 Wisma Atria
Printed silk neck ties, all $224.70, from Etro, 01-30 Paragon Winnie The Pooh printed necktie, stylist's own. From left, polka-dotted silk necktie by Domanchi, $49, from X/Square; pin-dotted silk necktie, $53, polka-dotted silk necktie, $53, both from G2000

1. Watch your waist line

Where a tie ends affects the proportion of your body. This is particularly important for Asians who tend to have long torsos.

Generally, the tip of your tie should end at anywhere on your belt buckle or the waist of your pants. If you have a shorter upper body, create the illusion of a more balanced proportion by having your tie end at the bottom of your belt buckle.

Always put on your tie while standing for the most accurate measurement of your waist level.

A rule of thumb: Your tie is too long when it interferes with your zipper when you visit the loo, and too short when it rises above your belt buckle when you stand up.

2. Play safe

Plain coloured ties that come without patterns are in. While unexciting, they are a safe bet for the boardroom. To jazz things up, wear one with an interesting texture such as a jacquard weave or with a lustrous finish.

3. Get the skinny

Skinny ties are in, but distinguish between catwalk chic and corporate chic. The skinny looks more playful than professional.

Still, a skinny tie might be okay if you are in a creative field. You still need to have the right attitude though. Be consistently trendy from head to toe, match skinny ties with a streamlined look of tapered trousers, slim-fit shirt and pointed shoes.

4. Knotty issues

For a neat look, the size of your tie knot should look proportionate to the spread of your collar - the distance between the points of a shirt collar.

The four-in-hand method of tying one is popular because it is the easiest. The broad end of the tie is crossed over and folded behind the narrow end, brought back in front, pulled through the loop between the collar and tie, then through the knot created in front. It is the most skimpy though.

If you have a wider collar spread, opt for the full or half Windsor, which loops the tie eight or six times. It is a more formal look and ideal for interviews.

The loose knot is trendy but it gives the impression that you are taking things easy, so save it for after-work hours.

5. Colour coordinate

A tie's colour should be darker than your shirt's. Do not end up looking like a mafia mobster with a pale tie against a dark shirt.

Your tie's primary colour should also complement, not clash with, your shirt. Any secondary shades should also pick up or match the accents of your top.

6. Strike a balance

Your tie should be proportionate to your girth. On a big guy, a normal sized tie will look skinny.

Use the length of your middle finger as a rough guide to the right width of your tie.

Watch your jacket too. The width of your tie should be about the same width as your suit lapel. So if the lapel is wide, your tie should be too.

7. Points about prints

It is okay to express your personality with loud prints, but keep the rest of your attire simple and in neutral colours. Halloween is over.

Print on print can work if they are of different sizes. Wearing two prints of similar size looks messy.

8. Go dotty

Polka-dotted ties are associated with circus clowns for a reason. As a general rule, the smaller the print, the more professional you look, so opt for pin dots over polka dots and pin stripes over prison stripes.

9. Don't be a cartoon

Save ties featuring cartoon prints, smiley faces or cute animal drawings for parties or you could just leave a Looney Tunes impression - with the emphasis on loony.

The only time ?conversation pieces? could work in the corporate world is when you have built a strong rapport with clients and are meeting casually, say, for Friday drinks.

10. Quality check

The material of a tie affects its overall look. Opt for silk, silk blends or microweaves that add a touch of class and are softer to the touch. A tie should hang naturally when knotted. Polyester ties are usually too stiff and hang like a plank.

Always try on a tie before buying, for only then will you know if it knots and hangs well.

This article was first published in Urban, The Straits Times on Nov 7, 2008.

 

 
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