IN the international spa industry, there can't possibly be anything relaxing or tranquil about trying to beat the competition at creating the biggest, most luxurious, most (insert superlative here), must-visit spa that every self-respecting hedonist just has to try out.

It's especially so in Thailand, particularly Bangkok and Hua Hin, where its tradition of Thai massage and Asian pampering has also spawned multi-million dollar investments in hotel spas. With every other five-star hotel shelling out big bucks to create oases of relaxation within the limited confines of their premises, it's often hard to decide which one to pick, considering that once you take away the mood lighting, the fancy vichy showers and the rose-petal bath, the quality of the treatments - whatever their intricate names - are essentially the same.

So what never fails to surprise then, is the way that some hotels are still able to do something just that little bit extra-special that makes them stand out from the rest of the high-end pack. If you're in the market for a spa getaway that's just a little bit more special, we found three that hit the spot.

The Barai at Hyatt Regency Hua Hin (www.thebarai.com)

HUA Hin isn't exactly the hippest spot outside of Bangkok to be in, but that's not the reason why you have no desire to explore the tiny resort town the moment you've checked into the Barai.

In fact, the near three-hour limousine ride from Suvarnabhumi Airport to the Thai royal family's favourite holiday residence is about the only time you will spend sightseeing - for your entire stay, you won't be tempted to leave the luxurious confines of this eight-suite residential spa that makes the neighbouring Hyatt Regency seem like a raucous playground for the hoi polloi in comparison.

Looking like a surreal Gaudi-inspired villa from street level, the high coral-coloured walls protect the resort from prying eyes, like a secret Mediterranean castle choosing to reveal its riches only to a selected few. In the Barai's case, about 16 people at a time, tops.

Designed by hot Thai architect Lek Bunnag, the site is a manifestation of his obsession with old Khmer legends and the angels that dominate its stories. Space and light prevail in the individual suites which are as large as some three-room condos back home and are the spa-lover's dream come true. The entire room is a long, uninterrupted space with no walls, just a natural progression from lounge to bedroom, to bathroom and your very own massage area. This is where your private Thai masseuse will come by and iron out your kinks with a traditional Thai massage, after which you can crawl straight into bed and fall asleep - definitely a sight better than having to walk back to your room in a regular hotel spa.

Look out the window and a magnificent view awaits - of the private gardens below and the Gulf of Thailand beyond. And just outside the window is the comforting sight of a very large old tree, special because it's one of the many original trees preserved from the original land on which the Barai was built.

The Barai sits on land which used to belong to Christian missionaries and one of Lek Bunnag's first briefs was to retain as much of the original flora as possible. Look around the resort and you will see walls at unusual angles - all designed to ensure that the trees remained undisturbed. Even the McFarland House, named after the missionary who lived there, has been rebuilt in the same spot, using its original wood. It could not be salvaged because of the condition it was in, and in its new form, it's a place for healthy spa cuisine and evening cocktails.

But the real magic, and Lek Bunnag's quirky brilliance, is best experienced in the spa building proper.

The Barai is named after barays, large man-made reservoirs created by the ancient Khmers to channel irrigated water for daily use. The barays were the lifeline of the Khmer people, and Lek Bunnag's quirky interpretation has turned the Barai into a veritable temple of wellness, watched over by Khmer angels whose physical forms are manifested in the intricate design details of the spa. The curves of their ears, for example are turned into door handles, while their eyes become mirrors. Coloured glass panels cut in significant shapes cast playful lights as you walk through, while open courtyards with water features add to the overall tranquility of this temple. Even the individual treatment rooms hold a surprise. Step into one darkened room and lo, another row of doors is swung open to reveal a private outdoor soaking pool and rain shower.

Treatment-wise, the Barai offers treatments based on the four elements of life that the Thais believe in: water, earth, air and fire. A customised Thai treatment involves a traditional herbal compress made from freshly chopped herbs and spices that is steamed and applied to the body - the heat and the healing power of the various herbs kickstart your own body's healing process, along with traditional massage techniques.

Fairy-tale treatments, your own private butler to see to your every need, a Zen-like tranquility pool where you can swim uninterrupted by another human being, a self-contained suite where you are in need of nothing - why would you want to go out? In fact, you may not even want to leave, even when it's time.

I.Sawan Residential Spa and Club. Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok (www.isawan.hyatt.com)

SMACK in the middle of Bangkok's busiest shopping area lies an intriguing oases - I.Sawan is Thai for the 'fifth level of heaven', and on the fifth floor of the Grand Hyatt Erawan is the entry to this other world of wellness.

There are just six individual spa cottages that form a different world from the rest of the deluxe rooms in this five-star abode. Like individual villas, each is a self-contained unit comprising bedroom, living room, bathroom, a treatment room that allows you to have 'messy' treatments like scrubs or mud wraps, and your very own patio for you to enjoy the efforts of the hotel's landscape architect.

It's not the Barai with its expanse of living area but for a city spa, it's a perfect alternative to a generic hotel stay. If you don't want an in-room treatment, you can amble over to the spa proper for a soothing aromatherapy massage using oils customised to put you in a genial mood for the rest of the day.

And of course, the beauty of this set up is that you can eat (in its casual cafe on the same floor), spa, sleep and even exercise all without ever having to get out of this fifth level of heaven.

The Spa@Millennium Hilton (www.hilton.com)

STAYING by the river in Bangkok has its advantages and its sheer annoyances. The good part is that you've got a lovely view of the river. The bad part is trying to get back to the hotel by car from the city centre. You'll end up so frazzled that it's all you can do to rush down to the Spa@Millennium Hilton for a transfusion of tranquility.

Again, this spa has the rare x-factor of being situated away from the hotel building proper. Located on the ground floor in its own greenery-surrounded area, the spa gives you a sense of being away from the hubbub of hotel activity while still allowing you access to its amenities when you need it.

One thing this spa has that others don't is its proximity to vast areas of natural greenery. Built around original, old trees gives it that natural rather than manicured allure, and you get to soak in the ambience while a spa consultant takes care to note down your health condition and the desired effects you want from your treatment.

The opulently appointed treatment rooms are the perfect background for its signature treatment - the equilibrium therapy which consists of a fragrant body scrub comprising black sesame and honey, while a hot traditional compress takes the cold edge off the airconditioning and the accompanying massage eases you back into a balanced state of mind and body. So balanced that you might even be tempted to try your luck beating the Bangkok transportation system. Not that you will win, but at least you know you can always find respite from it at this riverside gem.