Mention perfume and the last thing that comes to mind is the scent of metal or cognac and much less smoke or rubber.

But brands such as Japanese label Comme des Garcons and French fashion house Chanel are bucking the scent trend by turning to these unconventional sources for inspiration.

One example is Black Walnut by Banana Republic, which launches tomorrow - it contains notes of tobacco leaves and cognac.

In a market dominated by citrus and musky smells, they are a whiff of fresh air.

Corporate communications manager Alex Ho, 34, lists luxury Italian fragrance label Acqua di Parma's fresh Colonia Assoluta scent as one of his favourites.

'It's more intriguing and interesting as compared to fragrances from other mainstream labels,' he says.

Retailers say more of these scents are flying off the shelves.

Michelle Yow, marketing manager of beauty store Apothecary + Co, which carries cult fragrance brands like Comme des Garcons and Germany-based Escentric Molecules, says the store has seen sales jump by 15 to 20 per cent since January.

Escentials, available at Tangs Orchard and Tangs VivoCity, also carries niche brands like Creed and Acqua di Parma.

Alwyn Chong, head of retail concepts at cosmetics and fragrance distributor Luxasia, which owns Escentials, says: 'We wanted to bring in quality niche labels that are more about the scents than branding and bottle designs.

'These are created by true perfumers who don't stint on ingredients and quality.'

And men are not the only ones buying male scents, Yow notes.

'Women are going for more androgynous scents. They would wear fragrances meant for men as they think these scents have more character.'

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This article was first published in Urban, The Straits Times on May 8, 2008.