Established Japanese brands such as Shiseido, Kose and Menard have premium lines aimed at the well-heeled. However, before you max out your credit card, do be aware that pricier does not always mean better. Of greater importance is the compatibility of the products to your skin - which means that while a middle-aged woman may rave over the latest It cream, a younger woman may find it unsuitable.

Japanese products have at least one advantage over their European/American cousins - many are specially formulated for Asian skin types and often include whitening properties, a prime concern for most Asian women. A study published in the Journal of Dermatological Science suggested that Asian women tend to suffer from more age spots than European women who experience facial wrinkling earlier. Unsurprisingly, many "western" skincare lines focus on fine lines and wrinkles while Japanese brands take pigmentation concerns into account.

AsiaOne Just Woman takes a look at three premium Japanese beauty lines. Our two testers, a 54-year-old and a 27-year-old were given samples of the products to test. Each range was used for about a week, but products were discontinued if negative reactions were experienced by the testers. Our younger tester also discontinued the use of some products because their rich texture were incompatible for her oily-combination skin type.

Cle de Peau BEAUTE
The name of this luxury range by Shiseido literally means "Key to beautiful skin". It is based on Signal and Total Enzyme Management Theory and contains a unique ingredient, Cellular IC Normalizer, which is said to calm and stabilise skin cells. This in turn helps to delay the damage caused by external stressors such as UV radiation, pollution and dryness. Instead of relying on active ingredients that only work externally on the skin, and which may lose effectiveness over time, Cle de Peau BEAUTE is supposed to help your skin function optimally and naturally on its own. This reduces reliance on the products over the long term so that users can go without it if they choose to.

The much-talked-about La Creme was a hit with our 54-year-old tester. A little goes a long way, and the result was smooth, glowing skin that was noticeably more radiant after two days. She also had positive comments on the texture of the products, which she found light and pleasant.

However, our 27-year-old tester felt that the majority of the products, including La Creme, was far too rich for her oily-combination skin. Mixing the cream with a little Balancing Lotion helped to make the cream more easily absorbed, but this was deemed to be too much of a hassle.

Both testers agree that the Facial Foam cleans well and leaves the skin feeling smooth and supple. They felt that among the three ranges, Cle de Peau BEAUTE's facial wash was the best value for money.

Tested: Facial Foam ($89), Balancing Lotion ($180), Protective Emulsion ($180), Nourishing Emulsion ($212) and La Creme ($878 for 30ml, $1325 for 50ml)
Verdict: Best for mature, ageing skin. The anti-ageing, radiance-boosting results of the products are easily observed in such skin types. Of the three ranges reviewed, this had the most noticeable, positive results.

Established Japanese brands such as Shiseido, Kose and Menard have premium lines aimed at the well-heeled. However, before you max out your credit card, do be aware that pricier does not always mean better. Of greater importance is the compatibility of the products to your skin - which means that while a middle-aged woman may rave over the latest It cream, a younger woman may find it unsuitable. AsiaOne Just Woman takes a look at three premium Japanese beauty lines.

Embellier
Menard is one of the more well-known skincare brands in Japan, next to other familiar names such as Shiseido and Kose. Its 'underground' status is probably due to the the fact that Menard products were previously only available at selected spas and beauty salons. It opened a standalone boutique at Suntec City a few months ago, and looks set to go mainstream.

Menard's premium Embellier range aims to renew and rejuvenate skin cells, reduce the visible signs of ageing and repair the damage caused by ultraviolet rays and free radicals. It combines extracts of Reishi mushrooms, which were prized in ancient Japan for their medicinal properties and are now used for their beneficial effects on the skin. The products have a rich texture and leave your skin feeling supple and moist. With prices starting at $235 for its facial foam, it is also the priciest range in the Menard stable of products.

The texture of the range in general was too rich for our 27-year-old tester, but was acceptable by our 54-year-old tester. She liked the Refresh Massage Cream which also doubles up as a cleanser, as a little goes a long way, and it preps the skin for a facial massage. However, she discontinued using the creams after two days as she experienced a slight allergic reaction to them. Her skin became slightly inflamed and when the inflamation died down, her cheeks were slightly blotchy with dark patches.

To be fair, Embellier has been on the market for many years, and we know of several Indonesian tai-tais who swear by this. Unfortunately, it shows that regardless of the quality and prestige of a product, what ultimately matters is whether or not it suits your skin.

Tested: Washing ($235), Refresh Massage ($392), Liquid ($587), Day Cream ($685) and Night Cream ($685).
Verdict: More suited for dry, ageing skin.

Established Japanese brands such as Shiseido, Kose and Menard have premium lines aimed at the well-heeled. However, before you max out your credit card, do be aware that pricier does not always mean better. Of greater importance is the compatibility of the products to your skin - which means that while a middle-aged woman may rave over the latest It cream, a younger woman may find it unsuitable. AsiaOne Just Woman takes a look at three premium Japanese beauty lines.

COSME DECORTE
This premium range by cosmetic giant Kose has the most expensive night cream in the three ranges we reviewed. At $1455 for a 45g bottle of AQ Cream Meliority, it is even more expensive than Cle de Peau BEAUTE's La Creme.

Primarily meant for women over the age or 30, or those who are concerned about premature ageing, the range includes whitening and anti-ageing products that target a variety of concerns, from sagging skin to fine lines and age spots. It claims to have "intelligent" ingredients and formulations that are able to zoom in to problem areas, often in a time release manner. The products are also said to be able to penetrate beyond the superficial level of the skin for better results.

Our 54-year-old tester tried the AQ All Cellriser Essence and Mask, which retails at $292 for a box of 6. A nutrient-rich essence is first applied onto the face before a sheet oil-gel mask is placed over it. Our tester reported that the mask felt cool and refreshing on her face. She also said that the mask felt even more refreshing on bare skin - she even applied the used mask sheets on her arms to continue enjoying the cool feeling.

The AQ Cream Meliority, the range's star product, is fortified with Siberian Ginseng and is said to promote the generation of skin cells while enhancing the skin's firmness and resilience. Our tester reported that this rich cream was well-absorbed, and that only a little was needed each time.

Tested: AQ Vitalizing Lotion ($219), AQ All Cellriser Mask ($292 for 6), AQ Cream Meliority ($1455 for a 45g)
Verdict: Best for dry, mature skin.

All of the three luxury skincare ranges we reviewed shared several distinct commonalities. Firstly, a little often goes a long way - that triple digit cleansing foam or night cream might last you for four months or half a year. Secondly, they were often too rich in texture for younger, oilier skin types. They are more suitable (and have more visible results) on ladies who are concerned about their ageing skin. The high price tags that come with these premium products also mean that they would be out of reach for most young women with limited spending power.

Our advice: If you are in your twenties or early thirties and see no sign of fine lines yet, our advice for you is to save up now and splurge on these premium products only when you really need them. However, if you think you need it, and you can afford to, your skin might just thank you for it.

Cle de Peau BEAUTE and COSME DECORTE are available at Takashimaya Shopping Centre, Beauty Hall. Embellier is available at Menard's boutique at Suntec City, #01-028.